Okinawa in winter

7-13 March 2012 ~ Another season, another experience in Okinawa!

My friends describe me as a ‘bird without legs’ (hahahaa), I never seem to be able to settle down in one place for too long. I simply can’t see the reason to tie myself down and live for the purpose of living, rather I much prefer a life to do things that I enjoy and being around people I enjoy the company of. From my point of view, I ‘leave for the purpose of returning’ and seeing the world with my own eyes, meeting making friends with the local in person.

Erica, one of my very good friends from University and I have been talking about a trip together for a very long time but we never managed to go on holidays at the same time. Here comes our chance, to enjoy a week by ourselves in Okinawa – a place well known for the beautiful sun, clear waters and lovely weather (I would advise anyone who intends to pay Okinawa a visit to check the weather and make sure you don’t go during winter, it gets very windy – it’s an island – and almost 90% of the time its gloomy).

We didn’t think too much about the weather because we were planning on renting a car – Okinawa being an island so public transports is rather inconvenient, especially so for travelling to more rural areas. There was a tiny part of me that hoped for a dip in the clear water (which didn’t happen because it was soooooo cold!) but I was warned by a few friends that it’s either going to be cool or cold so I went prepared.

We drove to pretty much everywhere after picking up our car on the 2nd day, it was nice to drive again – and to know that I can still sit behind the wheels comfortably after 4 years of ‘public transports’ only. Driving in Japan is actually a very relaxing task, local drivers – even truck and taxi drivers – are very polite and nice as in they would let you cut in front of them if you signal and rarely hits the horn if you go too slow. The best thing is the speed limit, all the limit signs are really clear and obvious but funniest thing I’ve realised is no one really take them into account, especially in rural areas. For example, the speed limit in the city is 40km or 50km but no doubt people were driving at 60km or more. And on highways towards the mountains, legally we were to drive at 60 or 70 but ask yourself, who would drive 60km on a highway, so you can’t really blame them for doing 100km on a highway that doesn’t have any cars.

Unlike the trip to Kyushu, we set off a little later for several reasons. One because we don’t sleep until late, and we’d be driving the next day and also we don’t want to be stuck in traffic so we try to avoid peak hours (not that there are a lot of cars anyway). Then there’s also the flexibility of time when you don’t have to keep track of the train timetable.

We visited some historical sites, saw some nice scenaries, did some shopping, ate a lot of good food! Being an island, Okinawa has access to a various type of seafood, how can we say ‘no’. We had lobsters, sashimi, sea urchins and many others but there’s only one thing that can only be found (and served fresh) in Okinawa and the Philippines, Umi Budo - it a type of seaweed and the name literally translates itself into Sea Grapes which describes the appearance, they do look like tiny grapes on a vine. They are eaten fresh, with vinegar or in a salad, its crunchy texture makes it a really good snack too. Being rare to find and its exquisite taste, the prices are in general high but it’s more expensive to purchase overseas, so we managed to fit it in every meal

Bitter melon is another food that is popular in Okinawa, somehow it’s not as bitter as the ones we usually find and it’s very tasty when stir-fried with eggs and pork. Japanese being a very innovative group of people, they also invented bitter melon ice cream, snacks, juice and tea. All-in-all, bitter melon is very good for health too, it can regulate your blood pressure and cholesterol level, and has a magical effect on pimples.

Apart from just eating, we also went and made sea salt and a ceramic cup, we wanted badly to try making glasses too but we didn’t have enough time. Making sea salt was really easy if you can remember chemistry class from high school shaping and finishing a ceramic cup was trickier but it was nice to do something hands-on

Overall, it was a very relaxing 7 days. The weather sort of held – it was gloomy and sprinkled a little but there was no storm or heavy rain which I already consider as a blessing.

Hotel #1: Hotel Oranjour Okunawa - a very nice hotel at a very good location with a very small carpark (but there are other parkings nearby). Only 20mins walk from the International Street and markets with cheap seafood

Hotel #2: Chisun Resort Okinawa - it was a little old and has nothing nearby, but it was close to the aquarium and the beach!

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Kyushu – Day 8 (Fukuoka)

28 Jan (Day 8 – Last day) : Fukuoka -> South Korea

Woke up and felt like I rolled down a mountain, so I messaged Simon telling him that I won’t be meeting with him but will see him back in Korea instead. With only a couple of hours to spare before heading to the airport for my flight, I decided to give myself a treat and sleep-in for another hour, grab lunch and off to the airport.

Still suffering from a sore throat, I went for Udon. To my surprise, the udon was scrumptious! The noodles were chewy, there was a lot of vegetables and the soup was nice and thick. With a satisfied stomach but a drumming headache and a killing sore throat, I set off to the airport after a quick browse at Hakata Mall. Isn’t it amazing that I didn’t do any shopping at all on this trip but still I’m leaving Japan with my pockets full of fond memories.

The first thing that usually comes to many people’s mind (including myself a couple years back) when we say Japan, is shopping or lots of action. But if you stop and take a step back, you can see and feel the history of the city and what the Japanese have experienced and why they’re so proud of what they came from. This is so much more than just shopping malls and the modern side of Japan.

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Kyushu – Day 7 (Dazaifu)

27 Jan (Day 7) : Fukuoka -> Dazaifu -> Fukuoka

Today has got to be the most relaxing day because there’s only ONE place – Dazaifu – on the itinerary and it’s not very far from Fukuoka, only 30mins train ride! Actually, symptoms of a cold was starting to surface so instead of doing the hiking trail, I opted for something easier – just browsed around the shrine and the area before heading back to the hotel and crashing.

So I set off for Dazaifu after breakfast. Unlike the Shinkansen that I traveled on for the past couple of days, the train to Dazaifu is a local train but it feels like a subway and of course there’s no seat reservation. Still, it’s very clean and comfortable I arrived at Dazaifu just before lunch time, the train station wasn’t particularly busy but it felt right unlike Fukuma. After assuring myself that Dazaifu is going to be a lot better, my stomach protested loudly that it was lunch time and I should feed myself.

It is definitely a more lively and tourist-friendly place, there were signs everywhere in Japanese and English and shops on both sides of the road. There was no difficulty in finding Tenmangu Shrine. It is a huge shrine and well kept, everyone who comes would no doubt pay their respects at the shrine, but also they’d touch the sacred cow statue. Legend has it that by rubbing head of the cow, it’ll make you more intelligent so many students come to pray before their exams.

The shrine is also famous for the 6,000 or so beautifully planted plum trees that blooms in February / March. Since I was still a month or so away from seeing the blossoms, I had to try their Umegae Mochi (literally it translates into ‘plum rice cake’ but seems like it’s filled with red bean paste), the locals believe this type of rice cake can ward off illness – um, in my case it didn’t really ward off my cold but made it worse cause I ended up with a bit of a fever that night . I ordered a Matcha Set, a cup of traditional green tea and a slightly grilled Umegae Mochi despite my sore throat, it was very nice. I’m particularly fond of Japanese Matcha especially they ones where they use the powder, it gives the tea a low bitter taste on the first sip but the after taste is just amazing.

It was almost 3pm when my body protest in pain, telling me I should lie down and rest so took the train (or subway) back to Fukuoka. I had all my intentions of going back to the hotel, but after nodding off a bit on the train I felt a lot better and saw no point in why I should waste my last full day in Kyushu. So I detoured to Tenjin Underground Mall – it was warm and hey, I haven’t shopped at all on this trip. Obviously I’ve pushed myself a little too much, forcing myself to shop or window shop, I was dragging my feet (my whole body) within 30mins. Finally I surrendered, back to the hotel it is.

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Kyushu – Day 6 (Nagasaki, Fukuma, Mojiko)

26 Jan (Day 6) : Nagasaki -> Fukuma (via Fukuoka) -> Mojiko -> Fukuoka

People say it’s a good habit to wake up early, I’m not entirely sure if this saying also applies when you’re on holidays but anyhow, it’s still good to get an early start. Today’s schedule is more relaxed compared to Day 5 but still shouldn’t waste any time. Since I didn’t get to see Fukuro Bridge (properly) last night, so I decided to give it another go and the Torii Arch which was half destoryed by the atomic bomb.

The Torii Arch survived the atomic bomb and is now standing on only one leg. After seeing the Peace Statue and the Atomic Bomb site and now this, I really can’t bare to think the destruction that war can bring and the people who lived through them. Although I’m still carrying some deep thoughts but with the sun shining bright, I went for the Fukuro Bridge. YAY! I got to see the reflection and it does look like a pair of glasses A very good start today, I took the tram for the last time (I did hope to do a full trip on the tram but didn’t have the time, I’ll keep that in mind for my next visit whenever it may be) to the Fukuoka Station.

2nd stop is Fukuma, I don’t know much about the place but I saw on a website that it has a huge shrine and an amazing view of the city from the top of the mountain. I was really excited but sensed something was off the minute I got off the train which turned out to be a slightly freaky experience…First, there was NO ONE at the station..hmm! I still went along with the plan since I was there already, so I went to ask one of the staff at the station, seems like the buses have stopped running to the shrine and it’s a long walk from the station so he suggested that I take a cab. Honestly, I don’t know what I was thinking but I took the cab – thinking maybe he just didn’t want me to get lost, and if I could just pay attention on the way, I can walk on the way back. The cab took me to the shrine and once again, I found NO ONE – well except for a few ladies who taught me the correct way of paying respect at the shrine and warned me to be careful and I shouldn’t wander around on my own here. LOVELY! hahaa…oh well, still it was nice weather so I looked around and set off to hike up the mountain at which there was a group of locals walking in front of me..after a few turns where I saw more shrines and a bunch of crows, the group of people was no where to be seen and was getting gloomy so I decided to head back..I didn’t have an umbrella with me and have absolutely no interest in getting wet and cold!

Thought I was heading the right direction, until 30mins later I figured I’ve become very lost..hahaa! Thank god, I found a cafe and the really nice cafe owner (again, this proves how Kyushu people are nicer!) took me outside and helped me check the bus timetable – which I know has already stopped – then called a cab for me and offered me a drink

I was a little behind schedule as I got myself lost but still managed to get a good look at Mojiko, a harbour where they used to sell bananas back in the old days. A very nice place, but I wasn’t feeling too good (might have got a cold in the mountains) >.<” Still I’m on holiday and continue to meet nice people After a delicious and special dinner, soba served on a heated tile. I passed by a honey shop and got an ice cream, the temperature was dropping and the nice staff offered a hot ginger honey drink for free To top it off, I found a MCC with music!!! wahahahaa….

Hotel #6:  Miyako Hotel - same as hotel #4 because it was a nice hotel, good location and cheap

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Kyushu – Day 5 (Beppu and Nagasaki)

25 Jan (Day 5) : Fukuoka -> Beppu -> Nagasaki

Well now, the schedule for today is really tight (Thank goodness I made it to every train and managed to tick off everything on my list! ), it may look as if I only have 2 locations on my schedule but there’s actually a lot to see at both locations AND Jenn was flying back to Korea today – which means I’m going to be on my own for the rest of the trip from now on.

As usual, early in the morning I went to airport shuttle station with Jenn. It was a pity that we couldn’t have our last breakfast today but I must say we had a really good 4 days together, we are too alike – we think and crave for the same thing at the same time, it’s so weird but I’m so thankful for this great travel buddy.

After seeing my travel buddy off, I headed to Beppu. Beppu is famous for the Jigoku – 8 Hells and Hot Sand Bath (where sands are heated by underground onsen, these hot sands are said to be really good arthritis) - usually it takes approx. 3+ hours to go around but I’m going to test out my speed by only leaving a 2 hours window before my train to Nagasaki (though it sounded like a challenge I give to myself but really it’s because of the train timetable). I immediately dropped off my bags at the lockers and got a travel pass – one that I didn’t really end up using due to time constraints. As I reached the first of the 8 Hells, it got really cold and started to snow !

It was amazing to finally see the famous 8 Hells and found it rather funny but irrelevant to have animals at one of the Hells. It was a fine afternoon though I had hoped to try out the hot spring steamed seafood bento but they were all sold out (imagine that!) so I got the next thing that I wanted to try, which was pudding cooked by the steam of the hot spring. I managed to finish the 8 Hells in under 2 hours.

Here comes the highlight of the day! As I said, I was really tight on time, when I was done with the last Hell, it 30mins till my train leaves. Got myself a cab, told the driver about my train and how I really need him to drive FAST! hahaa…You’d never believe it but we started chatting and emphasized on how cute I am and how he’d like to keep in touch with me – it was ridiculous! Guess my ‘cham’ did encourage him to drive faster than usual and he got me to station in 25mins and I barely made it..phew!

Next stop : Nagasaki! It was almost 4pm when I got to Nagasaki so I had to get moving but this not a sufficiet reason for me not to enjoy a nice tram ride. Another reason why I like public transport, you get to see so much more than just what’s in front of you. I still managed to hit a few places before crashing – Peace Statue, Atomic Bomb site and the Fukuro Bridge.

There is always a balance in life, when I got to the Fukuro Bridge (it’s famous because the reflection of the water gives people an image of a glasses) it was too dark to see any reflection but on the plus side, the whole place was lit up by lanterns. It was CNY, important time for the Japanese, just like for the Chinese. I followed the long line of lanterns to the China Town – another famous place in Nagasaki. Here comes another highlight of the day, while I was busy taking photos and looking very hard for people to take photos for me, I saw the only forienger, Simon in the area as it turns out he’s from Australia and he was also teaching in Korea at that time..haha..small world!

It was a really good day with a very full schedule! There are still a few things that I wanted to see or revisit the next day and I need to work out the itinerary for Day 6 too, so back to the hotel!

Hotel #5: Chisun Grand Nagasaki - a very nice hotel, a little bit more expensive than the previous ones but it’s very clean, comfortable and secure. Also very close to Nagasaki train station, approx. 15 mins walk and there’s a tram station outside the hotel. The only thing is there’s no restaurants or convenient stores nearby.

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Kyushu – Day 4 (Yufuin and Fukuoka)

24 Jan (Day 4) : Unzen (Nagasaki) -> Yufuin (via Tosu) -> Fukuoka

Woke up at 6am (a nice treat for the both of us!)..I thought about going down to the public bath for a shower but it was too early in the morning and decided to give them another chance..still to my disappointment NO HOT WATER!! sigh~~ Felt so awake after a freezing cold shower but not in a nice way >.<” then we went down for breakfast, like the dinner, it was beautifully presented but the side dishes were a little too sweet for me

After breakfast, there was another surprise..SNOW!! Suppose the weather should be cool (around 7-10 degrees) but it was a lot colder and it snowed pretty heavily! First snow in Japan VERY HAPPY!!! Though once again, we were a little worried that the snow might make the already slow bus slower..

Thank goodness, it didn’t slow the bus down that much..still managed to arrive in front of Nagasaki station 10mins before our train leaves! BUT…the bus driver wouldn’t open the luggage compartment as he was helping others counting their bus fares, with only little time to spare, I took matters into my own hands and pushed open the compartment with the speed of superman we took our luggage and ran for the train..of course we made it but we couldn’t buy another kakuni manju for the train >.<”

It’s actually another day worth of walking but with the hotel’s big breakfast to start the day, we were full of energy ^^ To get to Yufuin – a nice area, also famous for hot spring as well as shopping – we need to transit at Tosu. After 3 hours, we’re at Yufuin!!!

First thing we did was have lunch!!! We ate at this little family owned restaurant, both the udon & the soba were really good and then we started our ‘shopping’ mission! There’s a 3 hour window before our train back to Fukuoka, which we thought it was enough but clearly it wasn’t too many cute little shops and too many things to see..we ended up having to run back to the station XP

At Yufuin, there was a Monchhichi shop..so many MCCs but they were all tooooo expensive ! But I did get a few things (as a gift for others and for myself) at a themed shop filled with Hayao Miyazaki’s animation characters …HAPPY!!! Before our run for the train, we got a  hot korake (fried mashed potato with minced beef inside), wow..it was nice, hot and crispy!!

Our train back to Fukuoka is called Yufuin no mori (translates into Yufuin’s forest) a themed trained that runs only between Yufuin and Fukuoka..the whole train is green with a very ‘foresty’ feeling Within 2 hours, we’re back in Fukuoka..

It’s Jenn’s last night in Japan so we decided to go try some famous street food at Yatai – but something must be wrong because suppose (from the tourist books) there’s a lot of food stalls but we walked for almost 20mins and there were only 2 >.<! Anyways, we sat down in one and ordered Gyoza (fried dumplings)..but it wasn’t that good especially when that guy kept poking at the gyoza to see if they were done or not. A little disappointed but it’s all about the experience!

We then headed to Canal City’s Ramen Stadium for a last bowl of ramen! On our way, we passed by a gyoza shop – a family owned one this time & it says they are famous for their gyoza..of course we stopped and tried it out! Funny thing about this little shop is everyone there were MEN..LOL we were the only girls but the owner was really nice, sat us down at the bar table and tried to chat with us as we waited for our gyoza! The gyoza were smaller in size (but cheaper than the ones at Yatai)  served with cabbage and vinegar sauce, the owner even showed us how we should eat them and told us that it’ll taste a lot better if we add the yuja fruit flavoured pepper paste – Boy! He was right

After the satisfying gyoza, we continued on for our ramen! This time we went to a soy sauce base ramen shop..it was good but the first shop we went to was better kekee…

Hotel #4: Miyako Hotel - a nice hotel, right across the road from Hakata station (very cheap for it’s location).

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Kyushu – Day 3 (Unzen @ Nagasaki)

23 Jan (Day 3) : Kumamoto -> Unzen (via Nagasaki)

Another early morning..well, we pretty much get up at 5 / 5:30am every day during the trip because we both needed time to prepare and pack! But regardless of the early morning cal, I feel very much alive because totally passed out last night after my shower (we did do A LOT of walking!)

The itinerary was pretty simple – it is the MOST relaxing day of all! Unzen is a hot spring (onsen) city, we are going to check-in to a hot spring hotel, enjoy a relaxing bath & the Japanese cruisine and will be sleeping on tatami! But Unzen (to my surprise) is up in the mountains so first we need to take a train to Nagasaki then a bus from Nagasaki to Unzen

It was almost a 2.5hours train ride, when we got to Nagasaki there was still another hour before our bus, so we had lunch – Yakisoba & Takoyaki and browsed around at the souvenir store. The Yakisoba was really good…given that it was in the food court! At the souvenir store, we were given some sample (taste testing) from a shop that sells Kakuni manju (aka pork belly bun)..OMG! it was heaven!! LOL..so we bought 2 as a snack for our bus ride

With only 30mins to go, we made our way to the bus terminal which is across the road from Nagasaki train station BUT..here’s the problem, there were no crossings instead we had to walk up the stairs to the pedestrian bridges because there were NO lifts as well =.=” believe me it’s not an easy task when you’re with luggage! Anyways, we finally made it across and got our return tickets (return tickets are valid for 4 days after purchase) and lined up for the bus! Our bus was filled with Koreans – can easily tell cause they’d pull all the curtains as soon as there’s a little bit of sun

The timetable said it’ll take 40mins but in reality, it took more than an hour >.<” (a little worried if I’ve left enough time to make it to the station tomorrow)..the bus got pretty stuffy and THANK GOD we had the Kakuni manju!! As soon as we got off the bus, the strong smell of sulphur hit us..thankfully, we got used to it pretty soon

At our hotel, Fukiya we were given a welcome drink (tea and a sweet snack) while we waited for the staff to check us in. Then the lady took us to our room – which had a stunning view of Unzen Hells and told us about dinner time, the baths, etc. After dropping everything, we went out for a walk and to get some pictures of the Hells before sunset. It was a beautiful little town, very quiet and peaceful! It actually got a little too quiet haha..we barely saw anyone as we walked down the streets and around the Hells. Randomly, steams would rise from the ground and strong enough to totally block what is in front of you..kinda dangerous but pretty fun

We had dinner at 6:30pm, everything was laid out in front of us – menu for main dish: steamed seafood and sukiyaki beef! It was perfect!! Though the portion looks pretty small but all together it fills you up nicely we also ordered the famous shokchu, the waitress said it has a potato taste to it but all I could is..it was very strong! After the delightful dinner, we changed into Yukata and headed toward the hot spring that we booked. Our hot spring’s name was Ichi Boshi (translates into ‘One Star’)..the best thing about it was one whole hot spring just for Jenn & I!! wahahahaa..after an hour, we left and chilled at the resting area with some cool buckwheat tea!! I also went to try out the big public hot spring..it was just as nice, mostly because it was almost 9:30pm and no one was there there were 2 parts to the public bath – indoor and outdoor – indoor one was like Ichi Boshi but the outdoor was fascinating, dipped in a hot spring with cool breezes blowing (think it’ll be even more amazing if it was snowing ).

As I thought this is such a dreamy place, Jenn brought me back to the reality and gave me a shocking news.. “There’s NO hot water in our shower!”…OMG, it’s impossible for a hot spring hotel to not have hot water, right?! Maybe the water was luke-warm and she couldn’t really feel it cause we just came back from dipping ourselves in boiling hot water, that was what I thought. But soon enough, I was proven wrong! There really was NO hot water!! So frickin’ COLD @%&@^*&@$#^ :’(

The hot water in our shower was the only setback, luckily the futon was thick enough to warm us up

Such a wonderful way to celebrate the 1st day of Lunar New Year!!

Hotel #3: Fukiya @ Unzen, a beautiful hot spring hotel with the BEST view of Unzen Hells! The hotel is right in front of the bus stop all the staff are really friendly and nice, some of them speaks English pretty well!

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